SS Speke Shipwreck Wildlife Guide | Phillip Island Marine Life

The SS Speke Shipwreck Legacy and Marine Life Sanctuary

On a wild February afternoon in 1906, one of the world’s largest sailing ships met its fate on the treacherous rocks of Phillip Island, Victoria. Today, the remains of the SS Speke tell a remarkable story not just of maritime history, but of nature’s incredible ability to transform human tragedy into a thriving ecosystem. This massive steel vessel, once the second-largest ship-rigged vessel ever built, is now a artificial reef where history and wildlife converge in spectacular fashion.

A Fateful Journey

The SS Speke’s story began in Carnarvon, Wales, where it was built in 1891 for the impressive sum of £22,000. This three-masted steel giant represented the pinnacle of shipbuilding technology of its era, second in size only to its sister ship, The Ditton, by mere inches.

On February 22, 1906, after battling twelve days of punishing weather from Sydney, the Speke faced the full fury of Bass Strait. Captain Tilston, struggling against gale-force winds and what First Mate Cooke described as waves “as high as the topgallant mast,” made a fateful error.

He mistook Cape Schanck Lighthouse for Split Point Lighthouse at Airey’s Inlet – a mistake that would prove catastrophic.

At 1:30 PM, the mighty vessel crashed into the rocks near Kitty Miller Bay. What followed was a dramatic rescue attempt that saw two lifeboats launched into the tempestuous seas.

While most crew members managed to reach safety, one sailor, Frank Henderson, lost his life in the churning waters. Captain Tilston, who would later lose his master’s certificate for twelve months due to careless navigation, was reported to have wept openly over Henderson’s death at a local resident’s home.

Irishman Pat Phelan, known as “Little Pat.” He was making his way home from a horse racing event, possibly a bit tipsy, when he encountered 25 bedraggled men walking along Back Beach Road near his property. Upon discovering they were survivors of the Speke shipwreck, he immediately took action, transporting as many as he could to his neighbor’s house.

Sarah Harris, who had lost her husband just six months before the incident, opened her home at The Pines in Ventnor to the shipwrecked sailors. She later told her children that the survivors “ate her out of house and home!” More poignantly, she witnessed Captain Tilston’s emotional breakdown in her living room, where he wept over the loss of crew member Frank Henderson and his ship. In gratitude for her hospitality, Captain Tilston gave Sarah a compass box, which is now preserved in the Phillip Island and District Historical Society’s collection.

During the disaster, Second Mate Cook showed extraordinary bravery. Following Captain Tilston’s orders, he went over the side of the ship into the dangerous seas to carry a life-line ashore. He successfully managed to secure the line around a boulder, which allowed the remaining 26 crew members to slide to safety on the rocky shore.

The most tragic personal story is that of Frank Henderson, the only casualty of the wreck. He was thrown into the treacherous seas when one of the lifeboats was battered against the rocks. While his crewmates managed to swim or scramble to shore, Henderson did not make it. Two days later, his trousers were found with a tear in the right hip area, suggesting his body had been taken by sharks. His body was never recovered.

The wreck became a local spectacle, with people rushing to view it using “every possible means of transport – feet, bicycles, horses, drays, gigs and buggies…. the once beautiful ship… a sad spectacle on the cruel black rocks, hulk creaking, masts swaying, huge seas breaking over her, and the beach strewn with wreckage.“

First Mate Cooke provided one of the most vivid descriptions of the conditions they faced, describing the seas as being “as high as the topgallant mast.” This firsthand account helps us understand the terrifying conditions the crew faced during their ordeal.

Nature’s Reclamation

What might appear as a tragic end to a magnificent vessel has, over the decades, transformed into something extraordinary. The rusted bow of the Speke, still visible today resting on its side near the eastern cliffs of Kitty Miller Bay, has become an integral part of the local marine ecosystem.

The wreck’s steel structure, slowly surrendering to the elements, now serves as a complex habitat supporting marine life. The metal framework provides perfect anchoring points for colourful sea sponges and delicate anemones, while the numerous nooks and crannies offer shelter to various fish species native to Victoria’s waters.

During low tide, visitors can observe how local seabirds have made the wreck their own. Pacific gulls and cormorants frequently use the exposed sections as temporary perches, creating a striking picture of how wildlife adapts to and benefits from human-made structures.

The wreck site has effectively become a unique intersection of maritime heritage and natural habitat.

Wildlife Around the Wreck

The waters around Phillip Island, including the Speke wreck site, support a rich variety of marine life. The structure attracts schools of fish including snapper, which use the wreck’s shelter for protection and hunting. Leatherjackets, known for their curious nature, often investigate the nooks and crannies of the wreck, while the site’s location within the nutrient-rich waters of Bass Strait ensures a constant flow of marine life.

Australian fur seals, regular visitors to Phillip Island’s coastline, can occasionally be spotted in the waters near Kitty Miller Bay. These playful mammals have been known to use the areas around shipwrecks as hunting grounds, taking advantage of the concentrated fish populations that such structures attract.

Visiting the Historic Site

For those wishing to experience this unique blend of history and nature, the wreck is best visited during low tide, when more of the structure is visible and accessible. The descent to the wreck is steep and can be challenging, so take your time and hold on to any available supports. If wet, it can be slippery – use extra caution. At the site, you’ll find signs with information about the wreck and the ship’s fascinating past. Take a moment to imagine its grand days before the storm that brought it ashore.

A walking track from the Kitty Miller Bay parking area leads visitors on a 15-minute journey to the wreck site, though the steep terrain requires reasonable fitness. Comfortable walking shoes with good grip are a must, especially if the track is wet or slippery. Avoid flip-flops or dress shoes for this adventure.

The site is remote with no toilets or amenities, so plan accordingly. Bring water and snacks if you’re making it part of a longer excursion.

The bay itself offers excellent opportunities for wildlife observation. Snorkelers can explore the marine life around the wreck (during appropriate conditions), while birdwatchers will find plenty to observe from the shoreline. The rock platforms exposed during low tide provide perfect vantage points for observing the local ecosystem, from small crustaceans to seabirds.

Conservation and Legacy

The SS Speke is a reminder of both human vulnerability to nature’s forces and nature’s ability to create new life from tragedy. The wreck site is protected under Victorian heritage laws, recognising its significance to both maritime history and marine ecology.

For visitors, the Speke offers more than just a glimpse into maritime history. It stands as a testament to nature’s resilience and adaptability, where a human disaster has transformed into a thriving ecosystem. The ship that once carried cargo across vast oceans now carries something equally precious: a diverse community of marine life that calls its rusted frame home.

As you stand on the shores of Kitty Miller Bay, watching waves crash against the Speke’s remains, you’re witnessing more than just a shipwreck – you’re seeing the intersection of human history and natural wonder that makes Australia’s coastline so very special.